I wanted to make the Miller waistcoat from the moment the pattern came out. I love the look of a vest with a pair of jeans or with a skirt. I’ve had this piece of black linen in my stash for many years and I think it was just waiting for this pattern to be released to find its place.

A white woman with greying hair, standing with face towards a white wall, with a black linen waistcoat (Miller pattern from Merchant and Mills)and a black/white wrap skirt and bare legs.

The instructions for this pattern were easy to follow, except for the welt pockets step. I had some difficulties trying to understand the insertion method. I’ve sewn welt pockets on a previous garment, but I used a different technique, so I think the next time I make this pattern I’ll just go back to my tried and true method.

What I love about this pattern is the way the fabric and pattern seem made for each other. The waistcoat has a modern look but hearkens back to an older time when people, men and women, wore waistcoats on a regular basis and linen, to me, also feels old and modern. I’m so happy vests/waistcoats have made a resurgence in recent years because I love the look. It’s one of those staple pieces that is easily sliding into regular rotation in my wardrobe.

A white woman, face is not visible, standing in front of a white wall, with a black linen waistcoat (Miller pattern from Merchant and Mills).

There are a couple modifications I would make with the next Miller. I would straighten the shoulder a little and shorten the rear armhole a smidgen. I think I sewed the buttonholes too close to the edge, so I would bring the buttonholes inward about half a centimetre. Aside from those changes I will stay with the size 11 (grading in between 10 and 12) because it fits perfectly around the waist and bust.

I found the buttons in my (rather large) button stash. I pulled out three options and decided on the these buttons. The dark grey looks great against the black fabric and I like the small amount of detail with the dip in the centre. The lining fabric is a cotton paisley. I’ve never used or even bought paisley before but it looks brilliant with the linen. It’s a bit of a nice surprise on the inside, making the inside look as nice as the outside.

A photograph of a black and blue-purple Paisley fabric, with a white label with black writing that says "I am an original".

I highly recommend this pattern. It’s so versatile. You can dress it up with a skirt or down with a pair of jeans. I love it as a top on its own but it looks great with a tee or a long sleeve tee as well. Perhaps I should make one in wool for the winter!

Pattern: Miller Waistcoat by Merchant and Mills

Outer fabric: from my stash, purchased in the fabric district in Toronto

Lining fabric: from Fabricland

Skirt: DKNY, thrifted from Bungalow in Kensington Market

Garment tag: from Intensely Distracted

Author